One of the first couturiers who made the progressive move into creating mass-produced diffusion lines inspired by his Couture collection after WWII, Dessès was best known for his exquisitely draped chiffon dresses and gowns inspired by ancient Greek and Egyptian robes. Also known for embroidered and sheath dresses with tight jackets and flowing skirts, Dessès mentored Valentino and Guy Laroche at his atelier which can be seen in their personal collections.